Glue the legs to the pheasant using 5 minute epoxy glue.
After the glue has set the legs in place you can build up and blend the legs to the body using wood epoxy putty
Allow to epoxy to set.
You are ready to prepare for painting.
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for making feet use 1/8″ brass rod and copper wire glued together using 5 minute epoxy glue
Cut the brass rod in two different lengths of 1 3/4″ and 1 1/4″
The nail is created by bending the end of the copper wire, peening the wire flat and shaping it using a file or grinder
The copper wire is used for making toes for each leg – 3 front toes(including nail) are 3/4″. 1 back toe(including nail) is 5/8″ and the spur is 1/2″.
To connect the toes to the supporting leg
place a piece of paper on the base and push the 1 3/4′ brass rod through the paper into a pre-drilled 1/8″ hole which is 1/2″ deep.
Tape the toes in place on the paper so the ends contact the leg. The toes will follow the contour of the base.
Mix the 5 minute glue and allow it to start to set up before applying it to the toe to leg joint. When first mixed, 5 minute epoxy is very liquid and if applied to soon will run. After 2 minutes of mixing it will start to set and this is when you can apply it to the joint using a tooth pick. At this stage you are wanting to have all parts connected. The building of stregth in the joint will take several applications of glue and is easier to do with the leg removed from the base.
Remove the leg by cutting the tape on either side of the toe with an sharp knife. you can then further build up the strength of the bond between the toe and leg.
For the raised leg
Tape the toes to a piece a paper so the ends meet. Note they are not spread out as they were for the other foot. Apply the 5 minute epoxy the same way as the other foot. The final step is to hold the 1 1/4″ brass in line on top as the epoxy sets. Remove the foot from the paper by cutting the tape. At this time you are still able to mold toes so they are looking relaxexed. Once you have them shaped you can add enough epoxy needed to strenghten the joint
Once the epoxy has fully set the joint on both legs will be very rigid.
check eye sockets before starting to insert 5 mm straw eyes
Fill the eye socket with wood putty and remove excess as the eyes are inserted checking for vertical and horizontal alignment.
Build up eye lids after the eyes have had a chance to set in place.
Width of the head at point 5 measures close to 12mm from the centre line
Rough out the beak first. Beak width at the base of the upper and lower mandible measures 5mm from centre line.
Start by shaping the beak
Crown of upper mandible measures 3mm from centre line. Make sure you leave the wattle a little wider at this point as the edge of the wattle does not go right to the beak. Once you have the wattle outlined you can create the ear feathers
Hollow the eye location out for a 5mm straw eye.
Smooth the surface of the head by sanding in preparation for placing the eyes.
Make a left and right profile template of the head. Using a glue stick, glue the templates to the carving.
They serve as a reference for removing excess wood and establish the contour of the head.
In the photos you will notice I have removed wood down from the centre line, leaving the centre line a little higher at this time.
The tacks on either side it is easy to align the eyes vertically and horizontally. The tacks will leave a small hole that you will be able to use a reference for maintaining symmetry of the head as you remove wood.
Before going any further, take a break, take the time to look at the balance of the carving and give thought as to how it will look on a base and prepare to add detail. It is well worth taking advantage of looking at what photos are available with the internet search engines Fotosearch Google or Bing